PEAKLIFE

A collection featuring 500-year-old royal Indian jewellery and ornaments will be going on auction at Christie’s in June.

With a rich history of extravagant ornamentation, India has attracted and inspired many magnificent pieces of jewelry. Some such historical jewels are set to make auction history in June at Christie’s. Offered from The Al Thani Collection, the objects date back almost 500 years to early Mughal rule and feature beautifully intricate pieces prized by Indian royals across history.

The Belle Époque Diamond Jigha

Traditionally called a jigha, this diamond encrusted turban ornament alternates as a brooch. The Belle Époque diamond jigha was first created in 1907 and then remodeled in 1935. It features old baguette and pear-shaped diamonds set in white gold, fitted with a plume holder on the other side. Maharajas would have worn it on formal occasions.

Gold Pen Case and Inkwell

The collection also includes a gold pen case and inkwell. Bejeweled with diamonds, rubies and emeralds, it is symbolizes knowledge, authority and power. Its importance was well documented in the Medieval Islamic times because of the importance of the written word in the Qur’an. Royal in nature, ceremonial inkwells were treasured by sultans.

The Nizam of Hyderabad Necklace

Made in the late 19th century, the Nizam of Hyderabad Necklace incorporates seven large foiled triangular table-cut diamonds in panels of rose-cut kundan set diamond leaves, along with green enamel. A triangular diamond pendant is mounted on the center with a melon-cut emerald. It is one of the most dazzling pieces of Indian princely jewelry.

The Patiala Ruby Choker

The Patiala Ruby Choker was commissioned by Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala. Made in 1931 by Cartier, it features 292 ruby beads weighing 356.56 carats with 132 threaded pearls between them, brought together a the ends with clasps of 120 diamonds and rubies set in platinum. It is a component of a larger necklace and is a splendid example Jacques Cartier’s lasting association with India.

Taj Mahal Emerald

Another instance of the Cartier-India association is the Taj Mahal Emerald. Inspired by the floral stone inlays and engravings of the Taj, it is a hexagonal-shaped carved tablet emerald of 141.13 carats. It was once the centerpiece of Cartier’s iconic necklace-shoulder ornament Collier Bérénice, which was exhibited in 1925 at the Exposition des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris.